MALIK JEET

Implementing a bust tuck in a jacket's pattern

We will work together to implement a bust tuck through making a jacket's pattern. We’ll follow the following steps:
First:
1) We should know the required size, whereas the standard is half waistline. For example: size (38).
2) Prepare papers to draw the pattern.
3) Draw a rectangle, the length of which is equal to the length of the required jacket (75 cm), its width is (23.5 cm) represented in points (a, b, c, d). Points (a, b) represent neck line.

Second:
1) Divide the pattern's width by 2, twice consecutively to use the results in the implementation.
First result: 23.5 ÷ 2 = 11.75
Second result: 11.75 ÷ 2 = 5.875
2) Mark the point for neck hole (f) by using the second result. Mark (f) 5.875 cm away from point (a) towards point (b).
3) Mark point (i) which is the start point of the extension line of shoulder width line from point (b) towards point (a) using the second result (5.875 cm).
4) From point (i) we draw an extension, the length of which equals:
(second result x 3 + 5), this value represents the span of armhole descending.
5) From the point of end of (i) extension, draw a line for the armhole and mark point (g) as indicated in the figure.

Third: Mark bust center.
1) Bust center is 23.5 cm away from neck line. Also, it is 10.5 cm away from the front center line.
2) From the bust center, draw an extension that connects to point (f), extending upwards by 1.5 cm. Reason for this added extension is because the difference between bust length and back length is 1.5 cm. At the end of the extension mark point (t).
3) From point (t) draw the neck hole circle using the (dividers). The dividers center of rotation is point (l) starting from point (t) as indicated in the figure.
4) We displace the tuck line extension by a third quarter of bust circumference. The displacement shall be circular with its center being the bust center. We mark point (m) as it represents the shoulder line start point.
5) Shoulder line extends from point (m) so that the end of the shoulder line extension becomes below point (b) by the depth of the neck hole + 1 cm. Then we mark point (s).
6) Mark the rotation line of the armhole by putting two points to the lower shoulder width line. The first is 4 cm away, and the second is 4 cm away from the first one. With this, we’ll be able to draw the armhole circle using the free hand.

Fourth:
1) Set waistline through bust line, whereas bust length is 41.5 cm and it should be parallel to line (a, b) represented in points (n, k).
2) From point (k) we move 3 cm away from waistline to make the proper tuck as shown in the figure